水手連衣裙
水手連衣裙（英語：sailor dress）是依水手服樣式設計的连衣裙，這種樣式尤見於緊身胸衣與衣領。水手衣領的襯衫稱水手襯衫（middy blouse，middy源自midshipman，即海軍學校學員）。[1]20世紀初美国以設計水手連衣裙的海軍裁縫名之彼得·湯姆森連衣裙（Peter Thomson dress）。[2]
彼得·湯姆森連衣裙
彼得·湯姆森（或作汤普森，Thompson）[3]1900年左右在美國纽约、費城開設裁縫店。[4]他為婦孺設計的原創水手連衣裙與套裝藏於大都會博物館服裝學院、[5]费城艺术博物馆等美國博物館。[6]彼得·湯姆森連衣裙的夏裝以棉或亞麻製成，冬裝以羊毛製成。[7]商家宣傳其為女學生理想服裝，並受試圖建立「標準樣式」服裝者歡迎。[8][9]至1919年，彼得·湯姆森連衣裙成為校服的有效選擇，以及「適合14—18歲女孩穿著多年好品味」的代名詞。[9]彼得·湯姆森樣式亦用於早期泳裝的緊身胸衣。[10]
彼得·湯姆森設計流行前，水手樣式的連衣裙已廣為人知。1887年瑞典，自然腰圍與百褶裙的「水手連衣裙」是服裝改革運動所提倡適合女孩的設計。[11]
20世紀末21世紀初
水手樣式有時用於婦人服裝，但20世紀中葉以來主要用於嬰幼兒的連衣裙。[12]20世紀後期，水手樣式與孕婦裝聯繫在一起，導致對水手樣式女裝的負面印象，以及穿著者「孩子氣」的一般觀念。[13]孕婦裝設計師利茲·蘭格說：「她不應僅因有孩子就穿得孩子氣；讓蹣跚學步的孩子穿水手服是一回事，讓成年女子遭受這樣的命運完全是另一回事。」[14]
參考文獻
- ^ Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. 2011 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780810840041. （原始内容存档于2020-10-20）.
- ^ Brooks Picken, Mary. Textiles and sewing materials: Textiles, laces, embroideries and findings, shopping hints, mending, household sewing, trade and sewing terms. International textbook company. 1923: 250.
A kind of dress worn by young girls, the waist of which is made in exact imitation of a sailor's blouse. This style of dress derives its name from its creator, Peter Thomson, who was a tailor in the navy...
- ^ The Flapper 00:29:13
- ^ Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: 1902. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.
- ^ Sailor Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: ca. 1900. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.
- ^ Boy's Sailor Suit: Shirt and Knickers. Search the Collections: Philadelphia Museum of Art. Philadelphia Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2018-12-04）.
- ^ Mrs. Mathews. Neglected Fraternity Opportunities. The Anchora of Delta Gamma. Delta Gamma Fraternity. January 1916: 168 [2022-03-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
- ^ Przybyszewski, Linda. Much for Little. The Lost Art of Dress The Women Who Once Made America Stylish. New York: Basic Books. 2014: 1944 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780465080472. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
- ^ 9.0 9.1 Dwyer-McNulty, Sally. School Uniforms: A New Look for Catholic Girls. Common threads : a cultural history of clothing in American Catholicism 1 [edition]. UNC Press Books. 2014: 102–104 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781469614090. （原始内容存档于2020-09-26）.
- ^ Gold, Annalee. 90 years of fashion
. New York: Fairchild Fashion Group. 1991: 61. ISBN 9780870056802.
- ^ Cunningham, Patricia A. Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920 : politics, health, and art. Kent: Kent State University Press. 2003 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780873387422. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
- ^ Lee, Jaeil; Steen, Camille. Technical sourcebook for designers Second. New York: Bloomsbury Pub. 2014: 107 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781609018566. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
- ^ Iovine, Vicky. The Girlfriends' Guide to Pregnancy. Simon and Schuster. 2007: 129, 131, 135 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781416551874. （原始内容存档于2020-08-20）.
- ^ Lange, Liz. Liz Lange's maternity style : how to look fabulous during the most fashion-challenged time 1. New York: Clarkson Potter. 2003: 8 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780609809174. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.
