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| 曼德勒皇宫 | |
|---|---|
မန္တလေး နန်းတော် | |
 | |
| 概要 | |
| 類型 | 皇宫 |
| 所屬國家／地區 |  緬甸 |
| 地點 | 曼德勒 |
| 坐标 | 21°59′34.59″N 96°5′45.28″E / 21.9929417°N 96.0959111°E |
| 起造 | 1857年 |
| 竣工日 | 1859年 |
| 所有者 | 缅甸政府 |
| 地圖 | |
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曼德勒皇宫（緬甸語：မန္တလေး နန်းတော် 发音：[máɰ̃dəlé náɰ̃dɔ̀]；正式名称：မြနန်းစံကျော် ရွှေနန်းတော် [mja̰ nán sàn tɕɔ̀ ʃwè nán dɔ̀][1]），位于缅甸曼德勒，是缅甸贡榜王朝皇宫，亦是缅甸历史上最后的皇宫。皇宫建于1859年，是敏东王所建的新都城曼德勒的一部分。皇宫布局遵照缅甸宫殿传统，位居要塞中央，坐西朝东，四周设城墙和护城河[2]。
曼德勒皇宫经历了贡榜王朝最后两代国王——敏东和锡袍的统治时期。1885年11月28日，第三次英缅战争期间，英军攻占曼德勒，占领皇宫，推翻缅甸贡榜王朝。英军将皇宫改建为达费林堡（Fort Dufferin），以时任英印总督达费林侯爵命名。第二次世界大战期间，曼德勒皇宫遭到盟军空袭，大部分建筑毁于一旦，只有铸币厂和瞭望塔留存。20世纪90年代起，缅甸政府又将之逐步重建，采用了部分现代技术。
历史
1857年，敏东王迁都曼德勒，在此修建新宫[3]。整个曼德勒王城规划为144块方格网状街区，其中王宫占到16格街区的规模[4]，占地413公顷，四面宫墙各长2公里，护城河宽64米，水深4.5米。城墙每隔169米设一处突出的棱堡，上建比亚达式尖塔[5]。皇宫四边各设3个城门，共12座城门，对应星相十二宫[3]，运河上共架设五座桥[4]。
曼德勒皇宫在1857年6月开工。缅甸国力受1852年第二次英缅战争重创，物力短缺，其大部分建筑直接由原阿玛拉普拉王宫迁建而来[6]，由象队将阿玛拉普拉皇宫的砖石驮至曼德勒山脚下。1859年5月23日，新皇宫竣工[3]。
第三次英缅战争中，英军进占皇宫，大加劫掠，焚毁藏经阁，掳走大量皇家器具[7][8]。英军将皇宫更名为达费林堡（Fort Dufferin），以时任英印总督达费林侯爵命名，在此安置驻扎士兵。第二次世界大战期间，日军占领曼德勒，将之改为兵站，又遭盟军空袭而损毁殆尽，仅余铸币厂和瞭望塔。
1989年，缅甸政府决定重建皇宫，由考古部负责[9]，并成立曼德勒皇宫重建委员会，由最高权力机构国家恢复法律和秩序委员会直接出资[9]，曼德勒省、马圭省、实皆省负责工程规划及执行[9]。整体设计尽量忠于原貌，但同时采用传统和现代技术，大多数建筑的屋顶为波纹金属板结构，并大量采用混凝土原料，而非原本的柚木[9]。
曼德勒山麓的金色宫殿僧院原本是曼德勒皇宫中的敏东王寝宫，但在锡袍王统治期间迁移他址，而免于战火，成为现今唯一留存的原宫殿建筑。
2021年10月，缅甸军政府在宫墙旁开辟公园，新建的停车场和路灯等设施将影响皇宫一带的面貌，同时违反缅甸在2015年实施的古迹保护法，遭到保护人士批评[10]。
城池
The wall
The palace citadel's four 2 km long walls form a perfect square, complete with a total of 48 bastions with gold tipped pyatthats or spires at regular intervals of 169 m (555 ft) and surrounded by a moat 64 m (210 ft) wide, 4.5 m (15 ft) deep. The walls, built with the common Burmese bricks set in mud mortar, are 3 m (10 ft) thick at the base and 1.47 m (4 ft 10 in) at the top; 6.86 m (22.5 ft) in height, excluding the merlons, and 8.23 m (27 ft) with the merlons. The embrasures are 0.84 m (2 ft 9 in) in width. To give access to the battlements in cases of alert and at the same time to strengthen the wall, an earthen rampart on a moderately inclined plane has been thrown up behind it. Its summit forms a platform 1.83 m (2 ft) wide, paved with bricks and running all along the walls behind the crenelles.[3]
Gates
On each face of the walls are three gateways placed at equal distances (508 m; 1666.5 ft) one from the other and from the corners. Each of the twelve gates, represented by its own zodiac sign, is 4.8 m (15.75 ft) wide and flanked on both sides by one-half of a bastion which supports the post of a many-tiered pavilion or pyatthat that rises over the gateway. The pyatthats over middle gates, used by the royalty, have seven tiers while those on the rest have only five. Of these twelve gates, the main one was the central gate in the east wall, facing the Great Hall of Audience and the Lion Throne in the palace.
The bastion projects 7 m (23 ft) from the face of the wall, and is 10.36 m (34) ft in breadth on each side of the gateway. It is ornamented on the outside, with simple mouldings and simple plaster carvings, but on the inner face which forms the prolongation of the gateway itself, it rises abruptly without any plinth or mouldings, from the ground level. Two flights of steps, one on each side of the gateway, provide access to the top of the bastion and the wall. Each gateway was equipped with a thick wooden door of two leaves, (which were removed after the British annexation).[3]
Masonry screens
The entrance to each gateway is protected by a masonry screen or barbican erected a few metres away from the moat in front of the entrance. It is 17.5 m (57 ft 5 in) in length, 5.2 m (17 ft) thick, 1.5 m (1 ft 8 in) in height, raised on a low plinth, and battering to the top. The summit is crowned by crenellated battlements on three sides only, the inner side facing the gate being left open and free. Access to the top could be gained by means of ladders, no other means of going up having been provided. It served as an advanced defence work protecting both the gate and the bridge a few feet away. By the side of this screen is a huge teak pillar resting on a brick plinth stepped off on two sides, and carrying near the top a wooden board on which is carved an inscription giving the name of the gate, and the year and date on which it was built.
Each of the four walls has 13 bastions for a total of 48 bastions. (Bastions at each corner are merged into one, hence 48 in total.) All the intermediate bastions are surmounted by a quintuple-roof pavilion. The barge-board of these many-gabled roofs are covered with carvings.[3]
The moat
Surrounding the walls, at a distance of about 18 m (60 ft) from them, is a moat 64 m (210 ft) wide, and of an average depth of 4.5 m (15 ft). In the case of foes armed with ancient weapons, this moat would no doubt have presented a rather formidable obstacle to the besieging army, whose crafts would have been completely exposed to the missiles of the warriors protected by the merlons on the ramparts and on the barbicans.
The moat was originally spanned over by five wooden bridges, four of which lead to the four principal or middle gates, that is one to each face of the walls. The fifth leads up to the south-western gate, used during the times of monarchy for amingala or inauspicious occasions such as to carry off dead bodies. The British constructed two additional bridges one at the south-west and the other at the north-west corner, to allow of materials and supplies for the troops into the fort.
The five original bridges are similar in design and are in unison with the defensive character of the fort and the moat. Two earthen embankments encased within brick walls form the abutments running into the moat from both banks. The space between is spanned over by teak logs of natural size – the length of two of these logs making up the length of the bridge resting, at both extremities on transversal beams supported by five posts partially encased in the masonry of the abutments; the extremities of the logs which meet in the middle of the bridge are likewise supported by five huge wooden pillars the heads of which are joined together by means of two large wooden plates which rest on cleats so constructed that the whole structure could be taken down and removed rapidly in case of danger.[3]
Palace grounds
钟楼
进入皇宫东门，右侧即是钟楼（ပဟိုရ်စင် Bahozin）。钟楼为方形基座，上有木制平台，由四根立柱支撑，平台上修有双层屋顶，顶部有宝伞装饰。每隔三小时，就会在平台上定时敲响锣鼓，全城可闻。此外，还建有用于标记时间的水钟。水钟由一个大水缸组成，水面上放着一个底部开小孔的铜碗。铜碗装满水后，每隔一段时间就会沉到缸底，以此标记时间[3]。
Relic Tower
To the south of the Clock Tower, nearly facing it across the road is Swedawzin () or the Tooth-Relic Tower. A good example of traditional Burmese architecture, the Relic Tower has three parts – first a low basement; second a rectangular block or terrace rising from the first and third a relic-chamber surmounted by a three-tiered roof (pyatthat); the whole is crowned by the usual finial and the hti. Along the four sides of both basement and terrace runs a battlemented parapet formed of lozenge ornaments; at the four corners of each are small square pillars each surmounted by a marble manussiha or winged leogryph; the monster has a human head and two bodies.
The relic-chamber on the terrace is square; the only entrance into it is on the west, facing the flight of stairs by which access is obtained to the top of the terrace; these narrow steps are enclosed between two brick walls, ornamented with copings in three tiers; the lower end of each coping is terminated by a large and graceful volute; this kind of ornamental stairs, with minor differences in details, may be seen all over Burma, either in brick or wood. The walls and roofs of the relic-chamber are adorned with graceful plaster carvings.
Although the building is called the Tooth Relic Tower, there never was any tooth-relic enshrined in it. The tower was built simply because it was the tradition to have such a tower at the royal city, a tradition from the time of King Bayinnaung.
Hluttaw
The Hluttaw (, [l̥ʊʔ tɔ̀]) or the Supreme Court was where the official business of the court was conducted. The Lion Throne (Sihasana) was the chief throne of eight in the palace. The hall consists of two three-roofed wooden structures, richly decorated with figures and flowers, and supported by massive teak pillars painted red at the bottom and gilded above. Therein was a Lion-Throne (Sihasana) for the king.[3]
Royal mausoleums
Due north from the Clock Tower is a cluster of mausoleums erected to the memory of some members of the royal family. The most important historically is that of King Mindon, who died in 1878. It was originally a brick pyatthat, plastered over and whitewashed, erected by King Thibaw to the memory of his father, as soon as the grave had been built. The Sawbwa of Yawnghwe, decorated the king's tomb with glass mosaic. It is a square structure surmounted by a septuple roof terminating as usual in a hti. Other mausoleums include those of three wives of Mindon: Chief Queen; Queen Laungshe, mother of King Thibaw; Queen Hsinbyumashin, mother of Queen Supayalat.[3]
Royal Mint
The Royal Mint is located a few hundred metres to the northeast of the mausoleums. It was where the first Burmese coin was minted in 1865. After the British annexation, the mint was used as bakery for the troops for some years. It was one of few buildings in the palace that survived allied bombing during World War II.
Watch tower
The palace grounds are dominated by the 24 m (78 ft) tall Nanmyintsaung () or Watch Tower, topped by a seven tiered pyatthat. It was the spot from which to view the city.[2] The king and queen sometimes ascended the tower to witness the panorama of the country around, with its river, the bills and lakes. They also, from its summit, contemplated the spectacle of the illumination of the town at the Thadingyut festival at the end of Vassa ('Buddhist Lent'). It is said that Queen Supayalat witnessed, from there, the entry of the British troops who took Mandalay in November 1885. The Watch Tower also survived the allied bombing during World War II.
On the palace platform
The road from the Eastern Gate, which passes between the Clock Tower and the Relic Tower, leads to the Mye-Nandaw, and the Golden Spire over the Lion Throne Room, which marks the centre of the city. All the palace buildings stood on the platform. The latter consists of three distinct parts: on the east, the Great Audience Hall and the Lion Throne Room are erected on an earthen basement contained by a brick wall; the whole of the western portion, from the westernmost extremity up to and including the Hman-nan or Glass Palace, is likewise an earthen basement surrounded by a masonry wall; these two basements are connected, from the Hman-nan up to the Lion Throne Room, by a plank flooring of the same level supported by numerous teak posts. The whole of this platform, in its greatest length, measures 306 m (1,004 ft); in its greatest width, 175 m (574 ft). The height of the basement is 2 m (6 ft 9 in), the surrounding or retaining wall rising to a height of 3 m (10 ft 9 in) from the surrounding ground, and forming a parapet 1.2 m (4 ft) from the basement. Access to the top of the basement was obtained by thirty-one flights of steps, some large and some quite small, the principal of which are those at the eastern and western extremities.[3]
Great Audience Hall
This hall itself is made up of three parts: the North (or Left) Audience Hall, and the South (or Right) Audience Hall; they were so called because, when the king was seated on the throne, facing the east, the first was to his left and the second to his right. These two parts or wings are connected by a transept running east to west from the flight of steps up to the railing around the throne; this transept was called the Central Audience Hall, because it was flanked by the Right and Left Halls. The Great Audience Hall as a whole measures, from north to south, 77.1 m (253 feet).
Below the palace platform, on each side of the flight of steps, on the east, may be seen a few old pattern European cannons and near them some heaps of cannonballs; a few other guns of the same pattern are placed also on the sides of the steps on the west front of the palace.[3]
The Great Audience Hall was built with a special eye to external effect, and this object was attained by carving and gilding all the wooden parts of the roofs-except the panels between the two roofs, which were merely gilt-that is, the gables, barge-boards and eaves-boards. The carving is in low relief and consists principally of a lotus and foliage-band on the eaves-boards; the barge-boards are ornamented with a plain scroll design and surmounted by flamboyant which are very effective as a decoration. But the wealth of ornamentation is lavished on the corners of the hipped roofs and the points of the gables as well as their lower extremities. The corners of the hipped (lower) roofs are surmounted by two wooden boards, made up of several joined pieces and meeting so as to form a right angle at the corner; the chief motifs are flamboyant, foliage, lotus-bands and guilloches.
The angle represents a stylized peacock—the emblem of royalty—is surmounted by a finial; below the eaves-boards is a pendant turned in the lathe. This same peacock is everywhere found at the points of the gables, forming a hip-knob, with the pendant below. All these carvings, besides being gilt, were also decorated with simple glass mosaic. The details above given apply mostly to all the other apartments.
Lion Throne Room
There were eight thrones in the palace, of which the Lion Throne (, Sihasana Palanka) was the greatest, and as such much more elaborately sculptured and finished than the others; an exact replica of the one in the palace was formerly in the Hluttaw. The king alone, of course, had a right to sit on it; and for anybody else to do so would be considered a case of high treason; the fact indeed was that anybody sitting on this throne was practically the king, if he could keep the rightful owner off. The base is a lotus throne formed of two lotuses, the upper one inverted on the top of the other; this pattern in no way differs from an ordinary altar supporting a Buddha image; but in the centre, where it is narrowest, that is, at the point where the two lotuses meet, is a small band containing a row of niches, with a somewhat larger one above it; in these niches were small figures of lions, besides the two large ones which may be seen now at each side of the throne. Access to the throne was obtained by means of a flight of steps in the room behind it from which it is shut off by a sliding door of gilt iron lattice work.
The other thrones were the Hintha Throne (), Elephant Throne (Gajasana) in the Byedaik (Privy Council Hall), Thinga Throne, Deer Throne (Migasana), Peacock Throne (Marurasana), Lily Throne (), and Bee Throne (Bhamarasana).
The original Lion Throne was saved from destruction in the bombings of World War II, because it was transported by the British authorities to India in 1885 after the Third Anglo-Burmese War, and later returned. It is now exhibited in the National Museum of Myanmar in Yangon.
Glass Palace
Hmannandawgyi () or Glass Palace, is the largest and considered one of the most beautiful apartments of the palace. It is believed to be King Mindon's principal living apartment of the palace. Like all the Throne rooms, it is divided by a wooden partition into two rooms.
In the east room is the Bee Throne (Bhamarasana), so called because it was adorned with figures of bees in the small niches at the bottom of the pedestal. This was where the ceremony for the nomination of the Chief Queen and the Royal nuptial were held. It was also where the king and queen celebrated the Burmese New Year, and where the formal ear piercing of young princesses took place. The body of King Mindon was laid out in this room for viewing after his death in 1878.
The west room, which was formerly divided into several smaller ones, was the principal living room of Mindon, and no other persons were allowed to sleep there except the four principal queens, to each of whom was appointed a room near the royal bed-chamber, which consisted of a small room surmounted by a pyatthat, or small spire consisting of seven superposed roofs similar to the Golden Spire over the Lion Throne Room on the cast of the palace. This pyatthat was of gilt copper. On each side of this spired-room were constantly kept open two white umbrellas. The ladies-in-waiting of the Glass Palace were, by turns, stationed around the west room to wait upon. Their Majesties; they, whether princesses or minor queens, were not allowed to enter this room with slippers on or with their golden umbrellas: they had to leave these at the entrance with their attendants.
In the time of King Thibaw, Queen Supayalat had a small room to herself in this west room of the Hmannan.
Gallery
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Front of the palace -
Chief Queen's Apartments -
Lily Throne Hall in 1903 -
Lily Throne -
The Queen's Baths -
Mandalay Palace wall and bastion -
One of the gates -
On the way to the palace -
The cannon -
The MyayNanPyathat building -
The watch tower -
Inside of the palace compound -
Inside of the palace compound -
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The HmanNan building -
The HmanNan building -
The HmanNan building -
King Mindon and the Queen SatKyar Daywi -
King Thibaw and Queen Su Payar Lat
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References
- ^ Visitors' Guide Mandalay (PDF). Ministry of Hotel & Tourism. [2024-05-11].
- ^ 2.0 2.1 John Falconer; Luca Invernizzi; Daniel Kahrs; Elizabeth Moore; Luca Invernizzi Tettoni; Alfred Birnbaum; Joe Cummings. Burmese design & architecture. Tuttle Publishing. 2000: 70. ISBN 9789625938820.
- ^ 3.00 3.01 3.02 3.03 3.04 3.05 3.06 3.07 3.08 3.09 3.10 3.11 Mandalay Palace (PDF). Directorate of Archaeological Survey, Burma. 1963 [2006-08-22]. （原始内容 (PDF)存档于28 January 2018）.
- ^ 4.0 4.1 Kyaw Thein. The Management of Secondary Cities in Southeast Asia. Case Study: Mandalay. United Nations Centre for Human Settlements (UN-Habitat). 1996. ISBN 9789211313130.
- ^ Vincent Clarence Scott O'Connor. Mandalay and Other Cities of the Past in Burma. Hutchinson & Co. 1907: 6–9.
- ^ List of Ancient Monuments in Burma (I. Mandalay Division) 1. Rangoon: Office of the Superintendent, Government Printing, Burma. 1910: 2.
- ^ Lowry, John,1974, Burmese Art, London
- ^ Bird, George W. Wanderings in Burma. London: F. J. Bright & Son. 1897: 254.
- ^ 9.0 9.1 9.2 9.3 Moore, Elizabeth. The Reconstruction of mandalay Palace. Bulletin of the School of Oriental and African Studies (University of London). 1993, 56 (2). doi:10.1017/s0041977x0000553x.
- ^ Myanmar Junta Criticized Over Mandalay Palace Park Plan. The Irrawaddy. 2021-10-13 [2021-10-14] （美国英语）.
External links
- Wanderings in Burma by George W Bird, 1897 – F J Bright & Son, London
- Recent photos of Mandalay Palace