淡香水
淡香水(法語:Eau de toilette,法語:[o d(ə) twalɛt])是一類氣味較為輕微的香水[1][2][3]。也常被稱作「芳香水」並含有一定量的酒精[4]。通常會直接在沐浴後塗抹於皮膚上[5][6]。
淡香水命名時常會加上其中的主要成份,例如天竺葵水中的天竺葵、薰衣水中的薰衣草等[7]。因為常用花作為原料,因此也常被稱作「花香水」[8][9][10][11]。
歷史
14世紀波蘭的伊利沙伯(1305-1380)發明了一種混合酒精的芳香油來塗抹皮膚[12]。這大約就是「匈牙利水」,即最早的淡香水[13],也是古龍水的前身[14]。傳說年屆七十且身體欠佳的女王在使用了這種香水後竟恢復了健康。此外,匈牙利水還含有迷迭香成份[15]。
酒精
一般會使用一些溶劑來溶解香油,但其必要性存在爭議。而大多數溶劑都是乙醇或乙醇與水的混合物,乙醇也可以起到擴散劑的作用,使得香水的香味更容易被人嗅到。相對含有3-5%芳香油、80-90%的酒精和15%的水的古龍水來說,淡香水的酒精濃度低得多,一般只有60-80%,而芳香油則一般有2-8%[16]。因此也被當做是一種稀釋過的古龍水或濃香水[17][18]。傳統上古龍水都含有柑橘油和芳香物質,但淡香水並沒有類似要求[19][20]。
健康
一些淡香水被認為可以滋潤皮膚並有一些其他的醫療價值[21][22][23]。1905年的《Medical Record》曾報導說噴灑淡香水可以恢復人們的精力[24][25]。14至16世紀有一類淡香水被認為有驅除黑死病的功效[13][26]。
參見
參考資料
- ^ The Free Dictionary definition. [2013-12-31]. (原始內容存檔於2021-03-06).
- ^ MacMillan Dictionary
- ^ Cambridge Advanced Learner's Dictionary definition. [2013-12-31]. (原始內容存檔於2010-08-24).
- ^ Cristiani, p. 117
- ^ toilet water term meaning. [2013-12-31]. (原始內容存檔於2018-03-06).
- ^ Distinguishing Colognes, Perfumes, Scents, & Toilet Waters. [2013-12-31]. (原始內容存檔於2021-01-26).
- ^ Ebert, p. 304
- ^ Lawless, p. 39
- ^ Baker, p. 262
- ^ Fettner, p. 102
- ^ Cox, p. 118
- ^ 12.0 12.1 Sherrow, p. 125 King Louis XIV (1638-1715) had his shirts scented with toilet water that included aloewood, rosewood, orangle flower, musk, and spices. The concoction was called "heavenly water" ...
- ^ 13.0 13.1 Stoddart, p. 154
- ^ Müller, p. 348
- ^ The History of Perfume 互聯網檔案館的存檔,存檔日期2015-02-08.
- ^ Groom, p. 329
- ^ eau de toil definition from the online Free Dictionary. [2013-12-31]. (原始內容存檔於2021-02-20).
- ^ Thesaurus online dictionary. [2013-12-31]. (原始內容存檔於2017-08-30).
- ^ Grolier, p. 154
- ^ Consumer reports, pp. 409-411
- ^ Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, p. 34
- ^ Hiss, pp. 918-919
- ^ Frank, p. 414
- ^ Dewey, p. 55
- ^ Interstate druggist, Volume 7, page 333. [2013-12-31]. (原始內容存檔於2014-01-14).
- ^ Dictionary of Traded Goods and Commodities, 1550-1820 by Nancy Cox and Karin Dannehl. [2013-12-31]. (原始內容存檔於2014-11-29).
參考文獻
- Baker, William Henry, A dictionary of men's wear..., W. H. Baker, 1908
- Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, Vol. 61, No. 11, ISSN 0405-668X, Published by Active Interest Media, Inc.
- Consumer reports, Volumes 25-26, Consumers Union of United States, 1960
- Cox, Nancy C., Perceptions of retailing in early modern England, Ashgate Publishing, Ltd., 2007, ISBN 0-7546-3771-9
- Cristiani, Richard S., Perfumery and kindred arts: A comprehensive treatise on perfumery, H. C. Baird, 1877
- Dewey, Willis Alonzo, Medical century, Volume 14, Medical Century Company., 1906
- Ebert, Albert Ethelbert, The Standard formulary, G.P. Engelhard & Co., 1897
- Fettner, Ann Tucker, Potpourri, incense, and other fragrant concoctions, Workman Pub. Co., 1977, ISBN 0-911104-97-6
- Grolier, The New book of knowledge, Grolier, 1986, ISBN 0-7172-0517-7
- Groom, Nigel, The new perfume handbook, Springer, 1997, ISBN 0-7514-0403-9
- Hiss, A. Emil, The new standard formulary:, G.P. Engelhard, 1910
- Müller, Peter M., Perfumes: art, science, and technology, Springer, 1994, ISBN 0-7514-0157-9
- Sherrow, Victoria, For appearance' sake: the historical encyclopedia of good looks, beauty, and grooming, Greenwood Publishing Group, 2001, ISBN 1-57356-204-1
- Stoddart, David Michael, The scented ape: the biology and culture of human odour, Cambridge University Press, 1990, ISBN 0-521-39561-5